How this squalid London toilet became a top dining spot

Popping in for a quick drop? Photo / Getty Images
You can now venture into the bowels of London for a lavish dinner. Quite literally. Two of the city’s former latrines have been converted into wine bars, writes Sue Preston
Given the popularity of WC Bloomsbury and WC Clapham it seems no-one is thinking twice about descending into two of London’s Victorian-era underground toilets for a wee drop of whisky, a cocktail or a glass of champagne.
The historic lavatories, built below street level to satisfy the standards of decency that existed in Victorian times, have been cleverly converted into fashionable and atmospheric wine bars. The original name, WC, still remain but today those initials stand, not for Water Closet, but Wine and Charcuterie.
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Getting these WCs fit, and clean, for their new role in life was a labour of love for Aussie expatriate and café proprietor Jayke Mangion, who had already made a name for himself in hospitality circles in London.
Above ground, WC Bloomsbury and WC Clapham look as they have done for more than a century which means, quite frankly, they look pretty shabby.
So, I am not surprised when Mangion tells me that people occasionally come down the tiled steps thinking they are still public toilets.
“We are okay with this. We let them use the toilet,” he says. “Three-quarters either stay for a glass or choose to come back at some stage. It’s always great seeing the look on their faces when they walk in.”
The night I visited WC Bloomsbury a couple did exactly that. “What is this place?” I heard them ask.
Intrigued, they chose to stay settling themselves into one of the comfortable candle-lit booths inside the once-toilet cubicles. My partner and I took our seats at the leather upholstered former porcelain urinals.
“The urinals that have been converted into seating are always most desirable,” Mangion says. “I’ve always laughed at this but I admit I’ve never really understood it.”
If people come to the WCs just for the novelty factor they won’t be disappointed with the food and drink offerings. There is an impressive curated wine, spirits and cocktail list and a tempting food menu. You can enjoy small plates such as raclette, duck rillettes, burrata and wild mushroom and truffle crostini or larger sharing boards of cured meat or a plant-based offerings.
WC Bloomsbury was the second of the two WCs Mangion refurbished. The late 19th-century public urinal underneath Clapham Common Tube Station was the first. The squatter-occupied public latrine had been derelict for 30 years and fashioning it into a 40-seater bar took two years. Today most of what you see is original – the mosaic floors and tiled walls were retained and the booths are the original wooden toilet cubicles. The old attendant’s office was converted into the framework of the bar.
While renovating WC Clapham, Mangion and his business partner uncovered some hidden treasures. In the toilet walls, under the plaster that covered the cubicle frames, was a stash of love letters and pornographic magazines dating back to the 1940s and 1950s.
“We’ve framed some of them and put them up on the wall in the loos for people to chuckle over,” says Mangion.
WC Bloomsbury was in a better condition but being a Grade 2 listed building made it a much bigger challenge for Mangion, who had to work closely with English Heritage to make sure its requirements were fulfilled. Original wooden stalls form the booths, original tiles line the walls, the granite and marble floors were preserved and some porcelain pieces upholstered for additional seating.
As for the future, Mangion, who is credited with bringing Australia’s coffee culture to London, says there are a few more vacant WCs in London at the moment. “I’m always open to opportunity but I have no plans at this stage for anymore.”
His above-ground businesses include Brickwood, which has grown from one café to six since opening in 2012.
“Our journey began with a passion for great coffee and a love for the laidback café culture of Australia and we wanted to bring that same experience to the UK. When we kicked off, most Londoners were asking what a Flat White was and why do we smash avocados? They had never tasted freshly toasted banana bread with a sliver of espresso butter! Thankfully they trusted us and there are now six unique stores in London’s southwest.”
Mangion and wife Joanna, who has a background in hospitality, personal fitness and nutrition, recently opened Nue Ground Cafe and Studio, a modern take on a healthy cafe with an adjacent studio offering Pilates, yoga, barre and reformer classes and natural non-evasive beauty treatments.
GETTING THERE
Fly from Auckland to London Heathrow Airport with one stopover with multiple airlines, including Emirates, Qatar Airways, Singapore Airlines, Cathay Pacific and Air NZ, often on a Star Alliance Codeshare basis.
DETAILS
WC Bloomsbury is situated on a traffic island at Guilford Place, Lambs Conduit Street, Holborn. The nearest tube station is Russell Square. It opens at 5pm every night and bookings are recommended. Its sister wine bar, WC Clapham, is located underneath the Clapham Common tube station
wcbars.co.uk